Nottingham graduate makes debut at London Fashion Week
A Nottingham Trent University graduate has been selected to showcase her womenswear collection at this week's London Fashion Week. RIAH MATTHEWS finds out more.
FLEDGLING fashion designer "Lady" Sophia Bentley Tonge will today be making last-minute preparations for her debut catwalk show at London Fashion Week.
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SOMETHING OF THE NIGHT: The collection is predominantly black.
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EYES ON THE FUTURE: "Lady" Sophia in one of her distinctive, fantastical Fallen Awake creations. C170210ML4-8
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SUPPORT: Sophia with Nottingham photographer Michael Lau; he said he had great faith in the new designer's skill. C170210ML4-3
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The 25-year-old designer is hoping to take the experts by storm with her unusual, nightmare-inspired collection Falling Awake.
The show is taking place tonight at the exclusive South Kensington Boujis members' club, known as a favourite with Princes William and Harry.
The self-titled Lady was discovered by the organisers, La Geneve North Events, after they read about her in a blog and then checked out her Facebook page.
It was a dream come true for the designer, who graduated from her fashion design degree course just last summer.
"It was a really good surprise when they called me and asked if I wanted to do the show," said Sophia.
"There are three other designers at the show.
"But they're a lot more established than me and they're all labels, whereas I'm an independent."
It is indeed unusual for a such a new designer to showcase their work at London fashion week, never mind in such a high-profile slot.
The organisers have supplied all of the models and make-up artists for the show, plus a budget that means it should have impact.
Sophia said: "I did Graduate Fashion Week last year but it's a lot different this time: it's the first real exposure I've had a as a professional designer.
"The venue has a capacity of 300 and it will be full of press, buyers and people from within the fashion industry."
Her designs are all inspired by nightmares and inject seemingly innocent items with a sinister feel.
She said: "The collection centres around nightmares and all the horrible things that could happen in the dark, so I've got dark teddy bears and dolls' heads peeping out the jackets."
The collection is predominantly black, which Sophia said was key for a collection based on nightmares.
She said: "Black is important as the concept is about neurosis, part of the psyche that people find alarming."
Sophia works in PVC, shape-memory fabric and uses spray paint; her designs also cover the models' faces with black masks, giving them an eerie aura.
She made some of the fabrics herself – and melted them to fit her body.
Sophia first showed her talent and potential at Nottingham Trent and her old lecturer is delighted to see she's come so far in such a short space of time.
Gilly Staples, fashion design programme leader at Nottingham Trent University, said: "Sophia was always highly individual, creative and experimental. She was very driven and enthusiastic and we always knew she would do well.
"It is unusual for someone to exhibit at London Fashion Week so soon after graduation – we're all so proud of her and wish her all the best."
Sophia has enlisted the help of another Nottingham talent who recognised her potential when she was still a student.
Photographer Michael Lau, of Toad Photography in Byard Lane, is helping Sophia create an art installation that is based around her fashion collection. Once complete the installation will comprise photography, film and live performance.
Michael said: "I don't often collaborate with students unless they're a bit special, which I could see Sophia is.
"Her designs are just getting better."
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