BRUNCH in Bridgford. It's got a ring to it, hasn't it?

Like chipolatas in Chilwell. Lentils in Lenton. Woodbines in Woodborough.

You get the idea.

Anyway, West Bridgford was where we were headed on one of those starving Saturday mornings when your last decent meal feels like a long time ago. Which it may well have been. You may have settled for kebabs in Calverton last night. Or bevvies in Beeston. Or something.

West Bridgford boasts a little row of brunch destinations that later morph into lunch joints, then bars, the longer you sit there. Places like Belle and Jerome.

A few doors down is Copper where, coincidentally, I'm meeting a mate who works for Notts Police. It only opened last year so this is my first visit.

Because of its multipurpose requirements, I'm expecting Copper's decor to be a bit impersonal – something dingy with chrome tables, shiny floors and quiet dance music that builds to a crescendo in the evening when the lights dim.

In fact, it's very homey with mismatched quilted chairs and a stacked tray of cupcakes on the corner of the bar. Nat King Cole lilts in the background. Nature Boy – my favourite.

Upstairs you find comfy sofas; downstairs it's a bit more crowded. There are plenty of customers this morning, some having coffee, some fry-ups.

You can treat yourself to a full English – Lincolnshire sausage, bacon, black pudding fried egg, tomato, beans and Portobello mushrooms – for £5.95 – or scrambled eggs and mushrooms on ciabatta (this is West Bridgford) for £3.95, home-made muesli with honey and yoghurt for £2.95, warm croissants or pain au chocolat. There's even French toast with crème chantilly and fresh strawberries for £3.95. I repeat: this is West Bridgford.

Then there are omelettes for £5.25. Later you get lunches and main meals which get a little pricier although most are less than a tenner.

We're sticking with breakfast, though. My friend orders Earl Grey which arrives as proper tea in a proper pot with proper milk. Very nice.

She also opts for Eggs Benedict which – in case you don't know – is a toasted muffin with poached eggs, bacon and hollandaise sauce.

It arrives on a long, rectangular plate. The muffin has been halved and toasted, the egg sitting atop with rashers of crispy bacon and a slick of hollandaise. It's all nicely presented. Warm, comforting grub. Apparently, says my friend who's a regular here, standards can slip a little during rush-hour. But this is 10am and Copper feels lovely and leisurely.

I order an apple juice. It's the bronze, from-the-carton kind, not the cloudy variety. It's all right. I also asked for a toasted muffin with a rarebit crust. It comes minus the rarebit but also minus the £2.95 price tag, so I can't complain.

But the Arnold Bennett omelette that comes with it is beautifully cooked. It's not easy to make a good omelette, as the chefs on Saturday Kitchen (which we're missing as we eat) prove every week.

But this one is a delight: a golden quilt, just fluffy enough, with an almost-but-not-quite liquid centre. The smoked haddock lurks in unignorable flakes. Gorgeous.

It comes with home-made parsnip crisps and a salad. It's a nice chopped pepper salad, slightly drowned in balsamic. I appreciate they serve the breakfast menu until midday but the salad feels like an intrusion on breakfast, the sharp balsamic cutting across the luxuriance of the omelette. I appreciate the effort, though.

We sit for a long time and we're not at all hurried – except, eventually, by somebody wanting our table. Which is fair enough. Service is attentive but relaxed.

I can't make any recommendations for chipolatas in Chilwell. Or lentils in Lenton for that matter. But brunch in Bridgford? I'd definitely give Copper a whirl.